Falafel with Dada, Hummus with Nasrallah
Berlin hummus special, part II
After a week in Berlin, without real hummus, I was ready to go a long way - literally - to eat my favorite dish. Finally, after some scary experiences, I got what seemed like a second best: a great Falafel.
In the second week of our current visit to Berlin, we met David, a former Israeli who lives in Berlin for many years now.
David was very sympathetic to our sad story about not being able to find good hummus in the city. He suggested we go to Casalot, a Palestinian place in the Mitte quarter, serving traditional Arab dishes (here’s their German site).
Berlin Hummus Special: Part I
Berlin 2007 is huge cosmopolitan metropolis with a population of 4 million, and a feeling of endless choice. Dozens of different tongues are spoken through the city streets, in which people of all nations can be seen and delicacies from all continents can be eaten. Only the hummus sucks.
Ironically, it seems like 9 of every 10 Berliners are fans of Israel. Most Germans living today were taught to loathe nationalism, and detest racism and chauvinist thought of any kind. They are usually very pro-Israel, though, and are eager to express that.
Most Berliners with whom I spoke, had visited Israel at least once, or have Israeli friends, or at least know a word or two in Hebrew - usually “Shalom” - and do their best to use it in a conversation.
Add to that the fact that Berlin has a large population of immigrants from the middle-east - Israelis, Lebanese, Egyptians, Syrians, Palestinians, Jordanian, Iranians and mainly Turkish - and you’d understand how come they know what shawarma, falafel and pita are. And yes, they also ate hummus - but the chances are it did not have Tahini in it. Read more
Hummus Abu Dahbi, the Reggae hummus
In the middle of Tel-Aviv, a tense and busy city of business, politics, cafes and clubbing, a place of good hummus and good music is more then a haven - it’s oasis.
In the case of “Abu Dahbi”, it’s a Galilee-style hummus (as well as Meshawsha, Mahluta, Hummus-Ful and Falafel), accompanied with black music. Mostly hip-hop and reggae, some from abroad - including classics - and some of local artists.
Gal Eilam, one of the owners, says that the rhythm of reggae is the rhythm of heart-bits. His business partner, Samir Ayub, says the most important thing for him is that their clients will leave the place full and happy - and this why the portions are so large, and there’s a refill if you’re still hungry.
I don’t know which of these two sides of the same place make it so calm and friendly, but this is the place I chose to be interviewed in last week, talking on TV about hummus and The Hummus Blog (you can read all about it in my previous post, The Fame of Hummus). There are many hummus places I like, but this one really feels like a safe haven. In some strange way, it reminds me of Berlin.
If you get to Tel-Aviv, don’t miss it:
Hummus Abu Dahbi, 81 King George Tel-Aviv (10AM-8PM I think)
And here’s a beautiful video clip of Axum, a hip-hop twosome, taken at Abu Dahbi’s. It is mostly a Homage to some Israeli artists and cult-movies, and the words are in Hebrew, but I think you’d enjoy it anyhow.
Maker of the video is Asaf Billet (who’s been awarded Best Director of The Israeli Music Channel Awards 2007). You can download the full WMV version (44MB) from his site.
(BTW, I wasn’t even hungry before the shooting, but could not help myself from eating all the hummus in my plate only to regret later for not taking some back home with me.)
Via Dolorosa of Hummus
Remember to wear good shoes, drink a lot, and try not to buy every beautiful thing you see - but do go to Hummus Abu Sukri in old Jerusalem. And please - go through Via Dolorosa.
For those of you who didn’t figure it out yet: I’m an Israeli, living in Tel-Aviv. I’m Jewish, so the fact that a certain place is associated with Jesus doesn’t mean much to me. I may find such a place fascinating, as I may with other historical sites, and that’s about it.
But if you or the people you travel with, happen to be Christian, than you can have twice the spiritual experience in the price of one: Hummus Abu Shukri plus Via Dolorosa.
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Abu Shukri and Via Dolorosa (click images to enlarge)
Now, there’s a point to be made: the name “Abu Shukri” is used by several hummus places, most of which reside on Abu Gosh, an Arab village a 5 minute drive from Jerusalem. Read more
Old city of Acre (Akko): Humus Said
Humus Said is located in the market at the old city of Acre. Both are a must if you come around this region of the world. Humus Said, specifically, is considered one of the best hummus places in the middle-east.
Acre is a small city with a population of less than 50 thousand people. A beautiful ancient harbor city, with a glorious history - during one century (12th) alone, it was inhabited by men such as Salah Ad-din, Richard the Lion-Hearted and Maimonides (the Rambam, Rabbi Moshe ben Maimon, the famous Jewish scholar and philosopher). In the 13th century it hosted the most important Jewish community in the world.
Right: Old Acre wall remains. Left: Hummus Said kitchen.
In 2001 it was declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Center, along with places like Masada, the Pyramids, Tag Mahal, and the city of Pompeii, and the such. It was cherished for ancient pearls like the Al-Gasar mosque, the Ottoman fortifications and the remains the Hospiteler order remains.
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Abu Hassan, the glorious Jaffa’s hummus
Jaffa, an ancient town with a glorious history, turned into a unique culinary gem. Packed with gourmet restaurants and boutique eateries, yet many flock to Jaffa for one reason: Abu Hassan’s hummus.
Jaffa is a city of contrasts. On one hand, it has a charged historical background. On the other, it’s a peaceful, friendly, hospitable place, and it is as beautiful as Tel-Aviv could never be.
In Jaffa you can find, side by side, luxurious mansions and neglected old buildings. Gourmet restaurants and cheap eateries. Wretchedness and glory, in an impossible mixture. And a lot of hummus.
No one knows how many hummus places are there in Jaffa. A dozen of them or so are well known and the many others are less famous but maintain their own fan clubs. And there is, of course, Abu Hassan, which warrants a category of its own.
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